Long lasting outdoor cushions

We buy outdoor cushions every other year or so, over a period of five of six years, you can spend a small fortune. Make sure you purchase the best to start with and save money in the long run. Best fabric is Sunbrella this fabric is not only the best to buy (will keep its looks bright for years to come) they gurantee their fabric for five years! Who does that right. Also the best insert in ez-dri. the water will run right thru it. It willnot retain water. They use this insert on boats. Just so you know.

I bought the rangefinder to help improve my golf game

The Bushnell V2 tour rangefinder is very easy to use compared to a GPS device. The V2 is always ready to use ,no matter what golf course you go to. The ranagefinder gives you the distance to your target in a instant. A GPS device may take few seconds to count down the distance to the target.The only thing I dislike about the V2, it is hard to get a distance over 250 yards to a pin or flag on a calm day.

Ironic since they were quite expensive at well over $1000.00 only a handful of years ago

I just started working on this machine this weekend. I had purchased a copy of XP Tablet on eBay but try as I would it would not install. I updated the BIOS and tweaked it and did everything I could but would still get the Blue Screen of Death when the computer went to reboot for the first time during installation. (remember, by the way, no CD drive on this machine. I used a USB drive with no problems).

Finally I tried a copy of XP I had from an old computer and it installed perfectly. So I don't know what the issue was, except that the XP Tablet edition I had was originally for an HP tablet not a Thinkpad. Who knows, but something was missing or wrong. Anyway the regular XP Professional installed fine.

Now I am going through the inevitable process of downloading drivers and getting everything working. So far I am about 60% done. The drivers are out there it just takes a while. I recommend a company called Driver Agent as a huge help. There is a small annual subscription but it is not a lot, and they search your machine and figure out which drivers are missing or bad and supply them for download. They are not perfect but a lot easier on the odd ball stuff. Oh and of course I have run Windows Update about a hundred times...

My machine is SLOW with only 512mb of RAM. I will be adding more. Also these resale units typically are missing stuff. Mine had the hard disk and caddy which I was told may not come with it, but no charger or battery, also no stylus pen. The batteries are out there for a few bucks. For the charger I am using a universal laptop charger. Oh and the hard disk is NOT a standard laptop disk but smaller in size. And a little slower. But they are out there on eBay also if you need one.

I have not tested the tablet functionality but once all the drivers are installed it will be fun...we are multi computer house so this is not an urgent project for me, more for fun. It is a really nice compact laptop bigger than a netbook but nice size. Not cutting edge but the current Lenovo version is $1400.00 I think!

chinese go karts

I bought this gokart/dune buggy off ebay awhile back ago, the buggy is Awsume when it is running. the person i bought it from said i could get parts for this thing through motosportsparts.com. they seem to have everything but what i need. And they said they will get it Yea right. well anyway if u own a chinese go kart dont go to motosports. i found a better place online. buyatvsonline.com they have been more help then anybody.

The clubs have a great feel to them even on mishits

I had a TaylorMade Burner which has a closed face and draw bias. The closed face (2deg?) helped with the slice but if I came over the stop, strong, I snap it in the trees.
The Str8-Fit has a nice visual set up when set to N or even 1 degree closed. Visually, the Str8-Fit can suit the person who likes a square/open/closed looking club.
The technology does work. Fighting a slice at the range with a neutral set up, I changed the club head to closed 1 degree/1 flat. This changed the ball flight to a slight fade. By the end of the range session, the ball was going straight, even a trailing draw (my swing plane definitely improved).
And the club is long. The TaylorMade is very long also but the Str8-fit is as long and more consistent. I was fitted at a local golf shop for shaft flex and loft. And also shaft weight. Each shaft weight has a different kick point. The store employee recommended a 9.5 and mid-weight/medium ball flight shaft, because my ball flight is slightly high in the neutral position and will get higher when set to closed. Getting fitted is definitely worth it.
The sound may be the only drawback. And this is nitpicking. It's on the loud side but not as load as a Cobra. The Burner has a nicer "smack" in my opinion.
All in all, I couldn't be happier with the Str8-Fit.

great camera I really like

I was slightly disappointed when I heard the Canon squeal, but I had sort of expected it at a camera of this age, and had already made preparations to remedy this myself. Once the mirror lockup mechanism had been re-lubed I popped in a roll of film, went outside and took some shots. After an hour at the local drugstore I could see that there was a small light leak where the original light seals had turned into a black goo, but overall the shutter speeds were still accurate, and the lens was as sharp as the day it was made. After replacing the light seals I ended up with a camera that rekindled my love for film, and has now had a good 40, 50 rolls of film put through it. I couldn't be happier, and have since added a couple of additional FD lenses to compliment this great body.

The camera handles ISO speeds from 25 through 3200, and functions as a shutter-priority camera if the lens aperture dial is turned to "A" (set the shutter speed on the camera and the camera will automatically choose the aperture based on the meter's readings.) It's easy to load, the advance lever is smooth, and the 50mm lens is a great lens to get your feet wet with if you're interested in dipping your feet in the film photography pool. A highly recommended camera for anyone looking for a great entry-level 35mm film camera.

There are two things to look out for when buying an AE-1, and I touched on them above: The infamous "Canon squeal" is a loud squeaking noise that is being generated by the SLR's mirror mechanism. To put it simply, it needs lubrication, and there are instructions on how to do this online (if you can read German), but if the thought of poking the inside of your brand new eBay purchase with a thin hypodermic and a syringe of sewing machine oil makes you break out in a cold sweat most camera technicians can carry this operation out for under $100, as well as give it a good cleaning and checking of the shutter speeds, commonly known as a CLA (clean, lube, adjust).
The second thing you should investigate is the condition of the light seals. This is a film camera, and film is light-sensitive, so if the back of your camera lets in light your shots could very easily be ruined. The seals Canon used on these cameras will have turned to sludge after 30 years, so you're better off replacing them right from the get-go. A fellow named Interslice offers easy to use replacement light seal kits here on eBay for around $10, I replaced my AE-1's seals with one of his kits, and it's a very simple operation, as in "if I can do it so can you".

Male pattern baldness is cause in majority of men by Androgenic or Androgenetic Alopecia

and bald patch area on top of head (vertex). The cause for such specific Alopecia in men has been discovered to be directly connected to high levels of a hormone called Dihydrotestosterone, DHT. Procerin has effectively worked on a majority of individuals with DHT related causes. With active ingredients placed in body, the transformation from testosterone into DHT does not take place; hence lowering the DHT levels present in system that cause male hair loss.

Among the main ingredients found in Procerin hair loss supplements are: Saw Palmetto Berries, Gotu Kola, Nettles, Magnesium, Zinc, Vitamin B-6, Pumpkin Seed Meal, and Muira Puma Root.

And the ingredients contained in Procerin XT serum topical solution are: Gamma Linolenic Acid, Grape Seed Extract, Saw Palmetto Extract, and Avocado Oil.

All natural ingredients found in Procerin obey with FDA’s GRAS safety requirements.

Procerin natural hair loss vitamins or supplements (tablets) should be combined with Procerin XT serum topical solution (liquid) to be applied on head. By combining these two choices (internal and external) of hair loss treatments, you increase the success rate. In other words, by taking both Procerin hair loss supplements and applying its serum topical hair loss solution, one can achieve faster results in less time.

Procerin hair growth vitamins, after taken orally and digested by system, supply the body with essential nutrients, minerals, and elements, to fight against male hair loss. By obtaining the optimum ambience, Procerin can help you retain your present hair, while assisting in the hair growing process as well.

The appropriate dosage for Procerin is to take two tablets a day; one in the morning and one at night.

How to Choose a Business that will Make You Rich/ Happy

Every Business Starts with a dream, and these dreams come in all shapes and sizes. The sad truth is that your dream ventrue may not be financially viable, unless you can find the business that best suits you! You will only be working happily and enjoy doing a something you love, you 'll have a much better chance of succeeding.

" Do What You Love, The Money Will Follow"

The Secret Ingredient of a Successful and Profitable Business = A business that Best Suits You + A Great Business Idea

There are thousands of business ventures out there. So how do you identify one that's right for you? Choosing the right business takes time, patience and commitment. It is not something you should take lightly, you dont want to make a major commitment of time and money to something you dont love. If you already have an business idea in mind, you should take time to reconsider and give yourself more option and make sure that is the right venture for you.

Choosing the right business idea is the most exciting and potentially rewarding activities that you can engage. You will want to choose a highly profitable, long term business that will please you in many ways.

Look at my Choosing the Right Business For You to continue reading :)

Chris Bosh out at least 2 games

Chris Bosh will miss at least the Miami Heat's next two games after a death in his family.

Bosh did not travel with the team to Portland for Thursday night's game against the Blazers and he will not play Friday night when the Heat play in Utah. The Heat close their road trip with a game Sunday afternoon against the Los Angeles Lakers.

Heat coach Erik Spoelstra did not name a replacement starter. Most likely reserve Udonis Haslem will see increased minutes and veteran backup Juwan Howard will be pressed into service. The team is currently riding an eight-game win streak.

I will reiterate Snappy's good point

Personally, I think it a disservice to the consumer though. You would think they would want to be blocked from inadvertently purchasing from the same seller again, they were once so displeased with, that they felt compelled to slam their stars. (I define SLAMS as the low ratings of one or two.)

Whatever the case, you can determine the date(s) any low stars were received from your seller dashboard. As that information is most relevent to know how long before you can recover your reputation from the hearsay slander.

If you happen to be a low volume seller like me, it takes 12 months for those low ratings to drop off the chart. Get too many of those low ratings, and you can actually get booted from selling on eBay. Nevermind the loss of your TSR status.

This is why it is so important to monitor those scores regularly, by running those reports. It isn't unusual for sellers to pay no attention to those ratings, until they are facing suspension. Usually by then, it is too late to recover.

Don't expect customer service to provide you any real assistance. Study those links I posted above. And spend some time manuevering around your seller dashboard, to let it all sink in.

By the way, I just noticed yesterday, they added a new graph to the seller performance trends report, which more easily shows the dates, and slams taken on specific stars.

Or maybe I had just never seen it before, since I received my first slam dinger this month, since those graph charts were implemented.

Moshi iVisor Air AG Screen Protector for MacBook Air 13

The Skinny

The Moshi iVisor Air AG Screen Protector for MacBook Air 13 is the next generation in protective engineering and it is fast becoming apparent why this innovation by one of the planet's leading design specialists for electronics is just blowing away the competition. Created with the enhancement and preservation of your Apple MacBook Air in mind, the Moshi iVisor Air for the MacBook Air 13 assists those seeking an effective yet simple option for shielding and showcasing their hardware. Sleek and user-friendly, the Moshi iVisor is the complete and reliable solution to all your protective needs, a fashionable and function-attentive invention that guards and elegantly frames your computer.

Unlike so many other screen protectors on the market, the Moshi iVisor Air AG Screen Protector for MacBook Air 13 tackles the fundamental problems buyers consider when shopping around for screen protectors: those minute annoyances that, when piled up, quickly send a person into fits of anger. At the forefront of these concerns are air bubbles. Why use a screen protector at all if all it does is leave these infuriating bumps on your screen? Thus, rather than employ the trashy single-use adhesive apparatus of its lofty brethren, the Moshi iVisor is equipped with a polymer adhesive border, guaranteeing 100% easy air bubble-free application. No squeegees, no sprays, no more bubbles!

But air bubbles are just the beginning! The Moshi iVisor Air AG Screen Protector for MacBook Air 13, via its multi-layered construction, boasts defences against a variety of other perils. The iVisor is surface treated to minimize scratches, reduce speckling and fingerprint smudging, and significantly decrease glare without sacrificing clarity. Thicker corners prevent dust from building up along the edges.

Installing the Moshi iVisor Air AG Screen Protector for MacBook Air 13 takes mere seconds. With the average screen protector, repeated application, failed attempts to silence air bubbles, and grimy residue are a certainty. Moshi's patented technology ensures the iVisor is the sole screen protector to be completely removable and reusable. Before reapplication, simply remove the iVisor from the MacBook, wash off the iVisor and its adhesive border with water, wipe off any dust and debris, and let it dry adhesive side up. Moshi recommends the iVisor Air AG Screen Protector be cleaned once monthly.

The Technics

To install the Moshi iVisor Air AG Screen Protector for MacBook Air 13:

1) Clean the MacBook screen with microfiber cloth to remove any surface dust.
2) Adjust the MacBook screen to its maximum angle for easier installation.
3) Slowly and carefully peel and remove the Moshi iVisor's backside protective film.
4) Line up the Moshi iVisor with the MacBook screen from top to base, ensuring that the circular opening is lined up with the MacBook's camera slot. Gently press the iVisor into place along the border.

The Verdict

The Moshi iVisor Air AG Screen Protector for MacBook Air 13 has stunned customers with its protective capabilities and dependability. This little number is the top among preferred screen protectors for MacBook Air 13 owners worldwide. Don't miss the opportunity to own this top-of-the-line product for yourself!

How Rich Dad changed my life

Lets just share my real life experience on how rich dad changed my life.

I love cars since I was small, and this lead to my intention to further my studies in mechanical engineering after my high school. Things changed when I came across the book of Rich Dad Poor Dad during the long holiday before going for foundation studies.

I had an uncle who is in business field. He has his own business and he likes to read. He is the one who borrowed me the book of Rich Dad. The ideas inside the book are astonishing and since then, I changed my mind. Instead of enrolling in mechanical engineering, i had chosen to study financial engineering locally. It is all because of the cashflow quadrants.

Under the concept of cashflow quadrants, of all professions, it can be categorised into four quadrants, namely employee (E), self-employed (S), business (B) and investor (I). I am eager to achieve success in my life and money plays a role in it. From the book, it is not impossible to earn big bucks by being self-employed or employee, but that is not what i intended to be. I hope someday in the future, I would have a constant inflow of cash without me physically work for it. This is called passive income in the book of Rich Dad Poor Dad.

In order to have passive income, there are no alternative ways but to be in B or I. During university time, I studied about finance and investments and realized that in order to earn big bucks in investment (at least locally in Malaysia), I need to wait for the opportunities to strike into my life. After the opportunities strike, I need to have the amount of money that I can invest in. After the opportunities strike, and I have enough amount of money, I need to make sound decision when making investment decision. Lacking any of these three components will brings me to losses.

I do understand that all things that we know will come from our experiences, whether they are good or bad. If it is good, yeah, we will feel happy with it. But if it is a bad experience, we need to learn from it. But since I am still young and have no much capital to be invested in property, stocks or any other financial instruments (i am quite interested in futures and options but unfortunately the financial framework and environment in Malaysia is not that updated and catch up with the system in Wall Streets, Singapore, Hong Kong and etc). Hence, I get involves in business with the guidance from my uncle. Even though the accounting, taxation and other paper works are sucks (basically i don't like this kind of tedious works), but I really get to learn something in business. Once I could build up the business model, aka a cashflow system that can run without my physical presence, wooola!!! That is what I wanted to be in life isn't it?

So basically it is the book of Rich Dad Poor Dad changed my perception and lead to the current life that I am in now. Hopefully, it brings the goods to you too ;)

Takstar WPM-100 In Ear Monitor Noise Problems

This is a review of problems I had after purchasing Item 180824673401 a Takstar WPM 100 In Ear Monitor. It was a Receiving Unit and Sending Unit package deal for $61.99. It came with connecting cables, a 220 volt PSU. Ebay Vendor did not mention that ANYWHERE on Ebay sale site. It is a 220 volt, 12volt DC, 300 mamp power supply, and a brief 6 page instructional manual of about 3 pages written in Chinese and 3 pages in English. It arrived from a Chinese Ebay Vendor on March 17 2012 and I tried it out March 18th and 19th. It is operating in the 432 to 434 MHz UHF range and is supposed to work for up to 30 meters range. Receiver operates with 2 AA batteries, has on and off volume switch and knob for fine tuning UHF send/receive between 432 and 434. There is no mono stereo switch but it has a red on light on the send and receive units.

The reason for my review is I could find ZERO reviews on this product. I purchased it and took a chance and lost as the unit I received is completely unusable for music groups, singers, musicians. So I am warning you, since there are no reviews out there yet. The Takstar WPM 100 I received had far too much static, white background noise, signal loss and searching with loud annoying pops, in and out ghost sounds. This unit would not be usable for any kind of performance. I am a bit of a gear nut, I have tried out units from Nady, Sennheiser, Shure, AKG and Carver. They all have their pros and cons, Nady is the one with the most hiss and noise in the past but also the cheapest. I was hoping Takstar would beat Nady with price and sound quality. Yes, it beats Nady by price. Yet it makes Nady look good in terms of sound quality! It made Nady seem quiet in comparison! Takstar was far too noisy and distorted. I mean there is NO WAY you are going to use this unit I purchased on stage...at least not the one I got in the box. It is more like a toy walkie talkie radio in sound quality, and you are not going to like singing or playing with it.

There is the possibility I got a defective unit. To test this theory, I e-mailed five other people on Ebay who purchased this same exact unit within the last month. BTW, I do not blame the vendor for anything except not listing this has a 220 volt power supply. And the Chinese ebay vendor is only repeating the company sales pitch of everyone selling this unit. I got answers from four of the five ebay purchasers within a day. Three of them said their units were very noisy, and that the vendor had told them to try changing cords and try different power supplies, and/or turn up the music louder to drown out any hiss. Only one of four who answered, said his unit worked perfectly and was quiet enough to satisfy him. If 3 out of 4 people say their units are too noisy and unusable, that is a 75 percent fail rate! Sure enough, when I reported the problem to my vendor, they said to change the cords and PSU and turn up the music louder to drown out any hiss. I am afraid that will not work with the unit they sold me. It will create a massive headache and will be intolerable. If you add me to the statistics, that four out of five unusable units in a month.

Wish someone had written a review that I could have read, before I purchased this defective product. So I am writing this for you if you are researching this as a potential great deal. Maybe it's a fluke and I got a bad one, and several others got a bad run from the factory or a vendor. Maybe there is a power supply problem. But I have voltage converters. They should fix that and be up front with us as to PSU. Not selling us a product and then asking us to go buy or try out different PSU.

Until I see and hear a good working one, I can only report my experience has been bad with this unit. I have been to China and Asia three times, and I am not afraid to buy Asian products. But I admit, I have been burned several times with cheap knockoffs that were defective or very subpar in performance. I own voltage converters. I own numerous items purchased on Ebay from China and other parts of the world, and I have nearly 500 purchases with 100 percent positive feedback. I am a nice guy and hate to say anything negative. But I worry that others will be disappointed as I was with this purchase. And it is very very slow and hard to return something to China purchased from a Chinese company. You will have communication problems and it take forever to get a replacement part or your money back. That is if you ever get your money back. If you want to take a chance that you will get one of the good working units, and if you are stubborn and the incredibly low price lures you (as it did me) then here is a review for you to read and reconsider. As for me, today I gave up on the Takstar WPM-100 and ordered the Galaxy AS-9004 unit. That is a 4 receiver unit that gets many excellent reviews on the internet.

Tracking of an international shipment

When you selling on Ebay you usually deal with international buyers.
You have to send item abroad and then, if buyer claims item as not received, you have to prove that
item was send, and received by buyer. In other case, you just loose money.

There's enough of bad experience with Paypal's refunds for not received items. Isn't it?
Yes! Especially from US sellers. Who use to send items with CUSTOMS DECLARATION number
which doesn't tracks on other postal sites.

So, to prove that the item delivered you need to track them at local postal sites, with their local languages
(examples: russian post, Elta (greece), spanish languages postal services etc.)

But there's an international track and trace system, which can help you to track items in 1 place with
translation to english, it is http://www.trackitonline.ru.
If you wish to get automatic updates of your postal item, you just need to register there and add item.

Also, I heard much troubles of US sellers with international buyers, especially from russia.
Russian postal servise is very slow, but their postal system tracks every step of the item starting from
Import to Delivery.

So where's the problem? Problem is that US sellers send items with Customs number, which is not trackable.
If you want to be sure that item delivered please send items to russia with registered option (R*), and you
will be able to track it down to Delivery.

tracking numbers and their options:
L*xxxxxxxxxxUS - /letter/ not trackable outside US (only few countries track it)
R*xxxxxxxxxxUS - /registered item or small packet/ should be trackable in any country, only local events
C*xxxxxxxxxUS - /parcel/ should be trackable in any country, complete events
E*xxxxxxxxxUS - /express mail/ - should be trackable in any country, complete events

Some countries do not track incoming registered items too (Australia, France, Germany and more), but it is possible
to confirm receipt through postal service (email, or call).
So if buyer claim non receipt, do not hesitate to call their local postal service.

Meditation 108 Beads Japa Mala

meditation or sadhana, generally known as “japa/jaap”. It is a tool used to keep your mind on the meditation practice. Malas are generally made from different materials such as tulsi (basil) wood, sandal wood, rudraksh seeds or crystal. Each type of material has certain properties which subtly affect the subconscious mind of the practitioner.

Meditation can be quite a tricky practice because the mind is like a naughty child. By its very nature, the mind tends to wander off during the meditation practice. If ones energy is low at the time of meditation, falling asleep can result. If the energy is too high, fantasy and distraction become the barriers. At such times, the mala provides the much needed anchor.

The mala beads are moved in rhythm with the breath and the mantra, so that both-sleep as well as excessive mental distraction-are prevented by this action upon the beads.

Citrine Meditation Mala Magical Properties

Meditation japa mala is a string of prayer beads used for reciting or chanting a mantra or other forms of spiritual exercise , meditation or sadhana, generally known as "japa/jaap".

Malas are great tools to aid in meditation. They have been used over centuries by beginners as well as experienced practitioners of meditation. They help in creating a proper mindset and mood for meditation. Helps focus the ever wandering mind on one point.The mala beads are moved in rhythm with the breath and the mantra. This practice helps both-sleepy as well as excessively distracted mental frame to be balanced during meditation. The malas when used regularly with a personal mantra, absorbs the vibrations of the practice.

People are drawn to golden Citrine for the courage and self discipline it offers. Getting tasks done, developing self worth and mastering the ego are all achieved through the energies of Citrine.It is a good stone for clearing the aura Citrine can help you manifest your goals. It helps to keep you cheerful. It is a prosperity stone and attracts abundance and personal power.

Magical Properties....

1. enables confidence in any situation..

2. helps digestion and the stomach...

3. is for strength, confidence, and mental clarity..

4. is warming, energizing, and enhances creativity..

5. gets rid of negativity...

6. boosts self-esteem....

7.brings aura into alignment with physical body..

8. is good after stress or depletion of energy..

9. stimulates creative thinking and inspiration..

10. frees the mind of limitations, turns ideas into reality..

VHS to DVD : The Basics and Explanations for DIY

I work with video for a living; editing, encoding, as well as authoring DVD's for production. At my job, I field a lot of calls from people that want to have their old VHS tapes archived to DVD, BD, or as an iPod compatible stream. In most cases, it is less expensive for the consumer to buy the necessary gear and learn to do it themselves, but a lot of people are intimidated by the prospect. No one has yet to make a fool-proof video capture, editing, or DVD authoring software for the consumer, so, yes, there is a learning curve, but it is only as difficult as your project requirements.

If you just want to do simple transfers, a stand alone DVD recorder will usually fit the bill. But if you want to be able to edit or perform some sort of restoration, or have a complex menu system, it can get you into headache mode pretty quickly if you allow it. .

The goal of this guide is to clear the air a bit and give you some clear options for archiving your VHS, 8mm, Hi8, and even BetaMax tapes to a digital format, answer some common questions, and to give a glimpse into the more complex aspects. Most people will find the first three sections sufficient to proceed.

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Video Capture: Simple Method

The easiest way is to get a stand alone DVD recorder. These can be acquired for right around 100.00, and it will allow you to link a VCR to it via the composite cables (these are the RCA pin plugs that are yellow, red, and white). These machines generally have no extended features, but some will allow basic editing and authoring ( menus, chapters etc) when you use a re-writable DVD (DVD-RW) The only issue, (or benefit, depending on your point of view) is that once you have done a project on a DVD-RW, you need to copy the disc, using a computer, to make a permanent copy on a DVD-R. Re-writable media should never be used for permanent storage.

There were, (and maybe are) stand alone units that have an on-board hard drive. This allows you to record to the hard drive, do basic editing and authoring, and burn the final result to a DVD-R ( or +R). The main benefit: if your recording goes sour in the capture process, you can start over, and no media was lost.

The overall benefit once your DVD is finished, is that you have migrated your analog recording into the digital domain, and it can now be loaded to a computer for further manipulation: trans-coded for iPod, converted to progressive scan for viewing on HDTV, etc...

Most recorders have 5 or 6 bit rate (speed) options, usually listed as modes of 1 hour, 2 hour, 3

hour, etc...or good, better, and best. You should stick to the 1 and 2 hours modes, only. I discovered the hard way on my own DVD recorder, when put in the 3 hour or longer mode it didn't drop the bit rate, but dropped the resolution by 50% and at the lowest speeds, (longest record times) 75%!

NTSC DVD video resolution is 720X480@72 dpi (dots-per-inch). The 3 hour mode dropped the picture dimensions down to 360X240!! While this will display as full screen on your TV set, it's only half the resolution of the better quality capture modes. The 1 hour mode on most machines will actually give from 75 to 80 minutes of record time on a single layer disc. Twice that, if your recorder accepts dual layer media.

When dealing with home movies or other irreplaceable video content, use the highest quality bit rates/speeds available on your recorder. You can always load the DVD's you make onto a computer to make longer running compilations without sacrificing quality at a later date.

DVD-R or DVD+R? DL? DVD5? DVD9?

Most stand-alone recorders require (or prefer) that you use DVD+R. The only difference between -R (that's a hyphen, not a 'minus' sign), and +R, is that the latter has a pre-written finishing file. Back in the days when DVD recorders could only run at 2X max, having the pre-written file would shave about 20 minutes off of the burning process. These days, it's not really needed, except for stand-alone units that typically burn in real-time, or from an internal hard drive at 2X or 4X max.

Most of these recorders will only use single layer media, but there are some that can use dual layer media that will allow you to use higher bit-rates (or speeds as indicated on the recorder) and an increased capacity, (Single layer discs are 4.28 GB and dual layer discs are 8.54 GB). All DVD burners for computers made in the last few years are already compatible.

Writer drives (burners) for computers will accept a wide range of media, and are compatible with -R or +R. For data storage or when creating a DVD master, I prefer to use -R.

Dual layer media doesn't present any special needs in most applications, but there is some misunderstanding on just what DL media is.

There are two recordable layers, one on top of the other, and each layer is written with a different wavelength, a that are read back with different focal lengths, on the same side of the disc. When the first layer has been played, the player refocuses to the second layer and continues. You may notice some hesitation or freezing on some players during the layer change, but better players with larger buffers have pretty much made this event rare.

Professional, and some prosumer DVD authoring software will automatically create the layer break for you, by locating a chapter marker or track that is at an optimal position, or will prompt you to create a layer break.

Some consumer software doesn't allow the user to select or create a layer break. Instead, it creates a layer break by splitting the content in half: 50% on each layer.

The commercial designation for a single layer disc is DVD5, and a dual layer disc is a DVD9.

There are some two sided formats too. A disc with a single layer on each side is a DVD10. A two sided dual layer disc is a DVD18. One oddball that you sometimes run across, but only with replicated media, (movies and other store-bought titles) has a single layer on one side and a dual layer on the other. This is a DVD14.

One more note on DL media; when writing the disc from an authoring software, there are two options for the second layer: OTP (opposite tracking path) and PTP (parallel tracking path).

OTP: All disc media tracks start at the hub (center) and spiral to the flange (edge).When the disc is written as OTP, the second layer spirals from the flange back toward the hub. This makes for a very fast layer change, and even a player with a small buffer cache can change pretty seamlessly.

PTP: The second layer follows the same path as the first; from the hub to the flange. This scheme takes more time to effect a layer change as the pick-up (laser/optics assembly) has to physically move back to the hub before it can read the layer.

Time Base Correction

When using consumer equipment to transfer tapes, issues like dropped frames, bad captures with big gaps, or being unable to capture a video at all, even though it seems to play on your TV, are a common occurrence.

Any video capture device requires a solid time code to sync with. Analog tape in general usually requires an extra piece of gear called a Time Base Corrector, or TBC for short. What this does is generate a new time code for the video you are capturing, so that the capture device (stand alone DVD recorder or computer capture device) can sync.

Until a few years ago a TBC would set you back upwards of $1500.00, but now it's possible to find a consumer or pro-sumer version for under $120.00, or a used pro unit for well under $300.00.

In addition to creating a time code, the TBC also allows you to correct the color (saturation and hue) as well as brightness and contrast (offset and gain), in real time.

Some stand-alone DVD recorders are equipped to generate incoming sync and will automatically correct color (not always a good thing on the latter) and so a TBC may not be needed. But all computer capture devices like DV converters, SDI cards and even USB video capture devices will need a TBC added to the signal chain.

Field Dominance and Why it's Important

Standard def TV uses an interlaced picture format, meaning a beam of light scans lines across the screen that are spaced apart by one line width, which is the first 'field', and then the beam scans again in those spaces that were left between the lines of the previous scan, which is the second 'field'. This happens 60 times per second, creating the picture. When each field has scanned the screen, this is equivalent to one frame of video.

In professional and broadcast video, the bottom or 'even' field scans first, followed by the upper or 'odd' field. This is called Lower Field Dominance. Unfortunately, much of the consumer DVD recorders capture devices and software are Upper Field Dominant. When capturing from an LFD source, this can cause colors to slip off target, or in the worse case, create jitter and other motion anomalies, and look fuzzy. When working with LFD files in a UFD environment, these anomalies are exacerbated. Motion becomes very jerky and jittery, picture quality is very soft and fuzzy. This is very obvious to even an untrained eye.

In and of itself, there is nothing wrong with using UFD, if your source material is UFD to begin with.

Stand alone DVD recorders, USB capture devices and software are all UFD.

The best way to get around this issue, is to use a computer with a DV conversion device. This will bring in the files as LFD. For a first time user, try the resident software that came with your computer for capture first, (MovieMaker on PC and iMovie on Mac).

If you ever wondered why something you recorded to DVD from TV looks degraded, it's most likely you used an UFD device.

HDTV, your computer, iPad, etc use a Progressive Scan display. Progressive displays do not use scan lines to produce the picture. Basically, each frame appears on screen as a complete picture. Converting from interlace to progressive requires some processing that I'll touch on in the section on Transcoding/Converting.

Using a Computer to Capture Video

A DV (digital video) converter is an outboard device that usually connects to your computer via FireWire, but there are some newer units that will connect via the USB port, or, better, there are internal capture cards that are easily installed (my favorite is by Black Magic). Be sure the device you are considering is a true DV converter. Interfaces that require proprietary software are generally not.

A capture via a DV converter or Mini DV camcorder that offers feed-thru, will be Lower Field dominant when captured as an AVI DV Stream on a PC or as an uncompressed QuickTime DV stream on a Mac.This will require encoding to MPEG 2 to create the final DVD, and that will add a little time, but it will produce a superior result as opposed to real-time software encoding to MPEG2.

Capture files are going to be quite large. Typically, it's about 13GB per hour of content.

Windows has both a MovieMaker program and DVD authoring software that is geared toward the consumer and is a great way to get started in creating your own DVD content. Mac computers come with iMovie and iDVD that does basically the same thing, but does not offer as many output options, but is easier to use.

ION, Pinnacle and a few others offer USB video capture devices and software bundles, but all of this stuff is UFD and offers very few options to trans-code files to the format you want to end up with. While these apps will make compliant DVD's and MPEG 4 streams for iPod and other devices, they do little to correct problems associated transcoding to or from interlaced video.

Pinnacle software offers the ability to capture and encode in real time, and can produce good results, but not stunning. Not good enough for me!

There are some devices and software apps that will allow you to capture directly to MPEG4, and will even convert your interlaced capture to progressive scan in real-time. But, if the capture device or software offers no real-time processing, (particularly de-comb and de-telecine), your video will be blocky and have a 'venetian blind' effect on any motion.

I use some UFD equipment for one-shot off-air recordings and I will occasionally import video to my computer from DVD's made on my stand-alone recorder for editing. I use Sony Vegas Pro for editing and encoding at home, and it can use any kind of video stream. However, I have found that anything I bring in via my DVD recorder or my Pinnacle Movie Box, which are both UFD, looks horribly degraded.

While I can fix these issues in Vegas, doing so requires more of my time, not to mention adds to the render and encoding process. A 30 minute program can take in excess of 3 hours to export with all of the added processing. A good clean AVI capture, via DV, requires no adjustment, aside from editing, and the same file takes 20 minutes to export.

Surprisingly, using the Windows video capture application produces a cleaner and sharper DV stream as AVI, than does the Sony Vegas software. Vegas has to create proxy files (rendering) to use these, but the result is well worth the extra 10 or 15 minutes of rendering time.

Encoding

Compatible TV format specs for a DVD in the US is in NTSC format, 525 lines, 29.97 fps (frames per second) interlaced, or 23.98 fps progressive.

Full explanations about encoding can be found on-line for those that really want to wade into this subject. What follows is more of a thumbnail sketch.

Assuming you've captured some video, it now has to be encoded to fall within DVD spec. DVD video is in MPEG2 format, and the audio portion can be either MPEG audio, Wave, AIFF, or Dolby AC3 files (the last one is industry standard). Another encoding option is to encode a multiplexed MPEG2 stream that includes both the audio and video in a single stream. Most DVD authoring software can use this type of file, and it simplifies the encoding process for the novice.

Most consumer software allows you to drop in the uncompressed video/audio into the DVD authoring software, and it encodes it for you. Be advised that the encoding defaults for these programs is pretty much down and dirty. You may want to do a little study on getting the best possible result. There are many reference works online that will explain how to set up a particular software for multiple encoding passes, and variable bit rates that can produce stunning results.

Using two passes of encoding produces a better result than a single pass. After the first pass encodes the stream, a second pass cleans up a lot of the pixels that can cause fuzziness or 'feathering'. Professional encoding systems offer multiple passes of encoding, the advantage being that you can create a very clean video stream at lower bit rates, and produce stunning results at the higher rates.

Encoding is measured on MBPS (Mega Bits Per Second). The average bitrate you will find on most commercially released titles is right around 7MBPS, variable bit rate with a peak nearly at 10.00 MBPS. Commercial titles are usually dual layer discs, ( DVD9), which affords the luxury of higher bit rates.

EXAMPLE: Not all software will have the options related, but many do: A two hour video that is to go onto a single layer disc with either .MPA or AC3 audio can be encoded at 4.2 MBPS, variable, two passes of encoding, with a peak setting of 9.2 to 9.8 MBPS (depends on who's software you are using). This keeps the video within the disc capacity and produces a best quality result.

In the same scenario, but the audio is in an uncompressed format like wave, or AIFF, it will require using a lower bitrate for the video, as the audio portion will take up 3 to 4 times more space than an encoded audio like AC3 or MPA. A lowered video bit-rate will produce a lower quality picture. If you have no option to encode the audio, then you might consider using a dual-layer DVD-R (DVD-RW-DL). This will allow the use of even higher video bit-rates as well (an average of 6.5MBPS would be a safe bet). Be advised that a high video bit-rate combined with an uncompressed audio track my present playability issues on many DVD players. It may exceed the player's ability to transfer, buffer and stream.

One of the options for encoding is CBR, or Constant Bit Rate. This is not really suitable for motion, and is best used for limited motion, still presentations, or when capacity is a concern over quality.

Transcoding/Converting

Conversion simply means converting one video format to one that differs in picture format, scan rate, frame rate, or format platform (NTSC to PAL, or interlaced video into progressive, for instance), while transcoding means changing the file type or codec to a different one (such as transcoding from MPEG2 to MPEG4, or Windows Media Video into H.264, etc...).

Converting video from one format to another takes considerable computer resources and can take as long as 10 minutes for each minute processed. So far, the most effective software I've found for format conversion is Apple's Compressor 4. The results look great, but may take days to process, unless you've got a network of MacPro's you can tap into. Hardware conversion is best, but also very expensive.

Transcoding from MPEG2, AVI or MOV files into streaming video or for iPod will be in MPEG4 format with the H.264 codec. There are other compressed formats such as DIVX, WMV, etc, but I recommend sticking with the iPod or MOV files, as these seem to be more universally compatible.

The simplest way to create this type of stream is to download a copy of HandBrake (totally free software, just put in a search). HandBrake's default settings leave a bit to be desired, but the accompanying help file is very clear on how to get the best result, without getting needlessly technical. After a little homework, and some experimentation, you can produce some really great looking MP4 or M4V streams that will look great on your iPad, computer , iPod, and even on a large HDTV set. Also, the processing is relatively fast when compared with other transcoding/encoding solutions.

Handbrake offers the necessary processing (filters) to convert an interlaced video into progressive scan, without any artifacts or motion anomalies.

Handbrake also offers creation of larger files types that can be used to up-convert interlaced video to a compatible file for HD viewing.

Professional and consumer editing software apps do offer up-converting processes, in order to put old SD content into the HD realm. But these require a computer with a lot of processing muscle, or even multiple computers via a network, to transcode files in a reasonable time frame. Results will vary according to the limits of the software and the user. Also, an up-converted SD video is not going to look any better in HD than it did in SD. It's usually enough just to convert the interlaced video to a progressive scan format, as this will produce the same end result, without a lot of time consuming processes.

Authoring

This is what the process of creating the actual DVD is called, as you are 'authoring the programing and elements' to make the disc perform and behave in a particular way. The earliest authoring tools were created by and for programmers. The abstract interface versions we use now (DVD Studio Pro, iDVD, Pinnacle, Vegas DVD Architect) made it possible for the rest of us to author DVD.

Still, this part of the process can be the most confusing step for a lot of people, which is why we have programs like Mac's iDVD, and Windows DVD Maker. These will usually meet the needs of most people that just want to burn off some home movies, and with a little experimentation, you can get a very good result.

The basic DVD structure is comprised of tracks and a menu (or menus), with buttons linked to tracks or markers within tracks. Every video file brought into most DVD layouts will become a track by default. A DVD can contain up to 99 tracks. Within the track, markers can be added to the time line for chapters that can be linked to menu buttons, button prompts or a layer break. A track can have up to 99 markers. Some advanced authoring apps, like DVD Studio Pro will allow you to put multiple files (elements) on a single timeline, so many files can become one track.

Professional DVD authoring software like DVD Studio Pro for Mac, or Sony's Vegas DVD Architect for PC (the latter can also author BD) will give you full authoring capabilities, but with a major learning curve.

A good intermediate application is something like the Pinnacle Studio series (made by Avid), which will give you many options that the professional software has, but in a more simplified interface. Roxio has similar software for Mac users.

Any of these applications will produce a playable disc for you, but if you want to author a DVD for commercial distribution, you really need to use the professional software or hire a pro. The prosumer and consumer DVD authoring apps don't always make a DVD master suitable for the replication process, and will often fail the mastering process (a glass master is made in order to create 'stampers' used to replicate discs).

The final step in authoring is to do a 'build' or 'create'. This will mutiplex the audio/video streams and build the final DVD folder that is to be burned to disc.

You create a target folder, and the software will create the following folders within it: VIDEO_TS and AUDIO_TS. Only the VIDEO_TS folder will have any contents (the AUDIO_TS folder is for DVD Audio discs). I would recommend just creating the folders on your hard drive first and opening the VIDEO_TS folder via your computer's DVD player app. This will allow you to preview your disc before you burn it, and allow you to go back, correct any errors, re-build and preview again. Once your sure everything is right, go ahead and burn your DVD.

For more detailed instruction, there are many freely available tutorials that will teach the finer points of DVD and BD authoring, as well as books.

Burn

While all authoring software has the ability to burn the disc for you, I usually recommend that a third party burn software to be used like Nero, Roxio Toast, NTI, etc...as they offer a verification option. Be sure to set the burn preferences as DAO (disc-at-once) as many of these default to TAO (track-at-once).

In the case of Roxio Toast, use the Data layout and set the properties under the advance tab as UDF (Universal Disc Format). In Nero, just use the Create Video DVD selection. Nero will only import the VIDEO_TS contents and will not permit any additional ROM data. The NTI software is similar to the Roxio software made for PC, and has more options than Nero.

When making a DVD9 (dual layer) disc: If your layer break selection is critical, let the authoring software burn the disc. When authoring a DVD9, it's common practice to create a layer break in a section that has faded to black or at the beginning of a track, so it appears seamless. Third party apps will ignore your selected layer break, and split the content evenly over both layers, creating a layer break at the 50% point. This will make for a very fast layer change in a good player, but still cause a visible stutter on a cheap player.

Regardless of which app does the burn, be sure to set your write speed for 4X for all disc types, or as low as your app will allow. Burning below 4X is not advised, as this can actually introduce errors, or not burn successfully. Equally, burning too fast can create readability issues in addition to physical burn errors.

For many years, 4X has been the sweet spot in the professional realm. I'm sure there is some mathematical explanation for this, but as I'm not a mathematician, I've never ventured to find out.

NOTE: If you plan to create a DVD9 for commercial distribution, make sure your software can create a file image in DDP2.00 format. This creates two folders; LAYER0, and LAYER1 that contain the .dat image files. These can be transfered to a thumb, hard drive, two DLT tapes, or to two single layer DVD's. This is important if you have a critical layer break, or require any encryption, as a playable dual layer disc can not have protections added, and the desired layer break will not be maintained.

For example, if CSS encryption is desired, for DVD 5 or DVD9, the flags for CSS have to be turned on in the authoring process, before writing the DDP 2.00 image file. The actual encryption is applied in the glass mastering phase. CSS can not be added after the fact. Rovi (formerly Macrovision) encryptions for copy prevention can be added to an authored DDP2.00 file image, but not a playable DL disc.

7 Easy steps to apply your Permatex Ultra Grey Silicone

For assembly as a form-in-place gasket:

1. Remove all previous material from mating surfaces. Permatex Gasket Remover or Silicone Stripper is recommended for most materials.

2. For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent, such as Permatex Brake and Parts Cleaner.

3. Cut nozzle to desired bead size, 1/16“ to 1/4“ in diameter. A 1/8” bead is usually sufficient for most applications.

4. Remove cap, puncture tube or cartridge seal and attach extension nozzle.

5. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one surface, first tracing the internal areas of the gasket configuration, then all surrounding bolt holes.

6. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet. Secure or tighten to recommended torque specs.

7. Re-torque will not be necessary after the product has cured.

For assembly as a gasket dressing:

1. Repeat steps 1 through 4 as in previous section.

2. Apply a thin film of silicone to one surface to be sealed.

3. Place the pre-cut gasket onto silicone film.

4. Apply a second thin film to pre-cut gasket surface.

5. Remove any excess and assemble parts immediately.

Storage of Unused Product:

Create a “Silicone Plug” by allowing excess material to extend beyond the extension nozzle or aerosol tip to cure, sealing and protecting the remaining product from moisture. For reuse, simply remove the cured product from the tip.

For Cleanup

1. Remove uncured product from parts and hand-tools with Permatex® Fast Orange® Wipes or Fast Orange® Hand Cleaners. If skinned over, break film with a dry cloth to remove as much as possible. Remove the remaining material with Permatex® Gasket Remover.

2. Clean hands with a dry cloth or Permatex® Fast Orange Hand Cleaner.

Typical Curing Performance

Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone 3.5OZ cures on exposure to moisture in the air. The product dries tack free in one hour and fully cures in 24 hours. Cure times will vary with temperature, humidity and gap.

Off brand Headlight bulbs Put to the test

Just to make this quick I have done alot of buying of these bulbs on ebay going from one seller the the other they all say brighter light and better night safety from low to high beam 3000k to 6000k and up. But all has failed the test everyone was so dim I could not see more then 12 to 15 feet ahead of me one pair was only 5 feet away I had to drive with the fog lights on just to make it around A corner. These are not safe why there able to sell these on ebay is not clear. it dont matter what watt you get even the 100w sets are much dimmer then stock and can melt your wires. after all this testing Its best to stick with A name brand bulb you know as of buying a name brand you know on ebay thats good just make sure its new in A sealed box just dont spend your money on any other no matter how cheap the offer these are 5cent bulbs made in bulk for making money at the cost of your safety. And dont be fooled by the before and after photos of the lights. Hope this helps and thanks for reading.

OptiView A6-CD 6-Disc CD Changer

Hate to agree with the others, but I had this for two seasons on my 30' Cruiser, which I only used probably 10 times or so X 8 to 10 hours a trip. It acquired an oil leak after the first season, the fuel cap assembly fell apart, also had a fuel leak. Sent it back and paid $160.00 in shipping and they fixed under warranty. Second season, seemed to be doing ok this year, till it got hard to start. Ended up being a valve spring that had broken in the motor. Now the electronics / inverter aren't working any more (Probably more $ than I want to invest at this point). Long and short you get what you pay for and this was pretty much a temporary throw away generator. My replacement will be Yamaha or Honda. Lesson Learned.

GAR WATCH FOB ~ CIVIL WAR VETERAN ~ GOLD AND ENAMEL

Most jewelers are in the habit of dismissing some very beautiful and interesting pieces from an interesting time period because the pieces are either unmarked or have a confusing mark they simply do not understand. But with a little research and a lot of interest in the subject it needs to be understood that pieces are NOT always marked, or have been reworked by an individual to same their sentimental pieces that been broken. Watch Fobs are generally very embellished pieces that were sometimes carried by a gentleman from the time they are given the piece because their pocket watches were part of their everyday attire just like a man today grabs for his wallet to go in his back pocket. It was his useful piece of clothing that was always carried with them.

Half pipe Blueprints Halfpipe Skateboard Ramp Plans DVD

The first thing you need to decide is where you want the ramp. Indoor ramps often suffer from lack of space or headroom. If you have a 4ft. ramp you will be needing at least 11ft floor to ceiling. The benefit of indoor ramps is that its protected from the weather. Outdoor ramps are most common. The main concern with those is how to protect it from rain or snow. The most popular surface material is masonite, but thats only popular because its easy to find and its cheap. It does not hold up to water so it must be covered with a tarp. There are synthetic sheets of riding surface materials but those are very pricey.

The size of the ramp is up to the funds and space available. A 4ft high, 8ft wide and 27ft long ramp is most common because its big enough to have a lot of fun and the lumber sizes available dictate the sizes of the ramp.

It isn't difficult to build a ramp. Young teenagers can build a ramp in as little as one day, providing they have adequate plans. All the materials are usually in stock at any Home Depot or Lowes.

Angola 1957 Local Motifs set MLH

This post is meant to be a guide for buying this rare issue.

If you see one for sale of this issue described with faults, do not hesitate to buy it on such condition since that overprint was applied on waste sheets prepared to be destroyed.

These remaing sheets were overpriwere stucked to each other and had to be previuosly washed before overprinted.

Apart from the rush due to the need of more stamps quicly, you can imagine that there was no notion of Philately among the native employers in charge of this delicate operation of removing the sheets stuckednted due to lack of stamps to supply the Local Post Office Agencies.

Due to tropical climate most sheets , causing most of the times bends, thins and lack of ink in the embossing of the stamps.

So take in consideration those facts before evaluating and buying any stamp from this issue.

Catalogue prices are for stamps with small faults. Perfect stamps are worth more.

Smokin Tex Commercial Smokers

The entire SmokinTex product line can be seen and purchases at our online store MyRubberneck where a limited number of COUPONS exist, FREE SHIPPING is offered every day and all purchases come with a FREE GIFT.

SmokinTex gives you two choices for your commercial needs - Models 1500-C and 1500-CXLD Both commercial smokers offer quality, all stainless steel electric smokers tailored to the needs of the professional chef.

Easy to use. Put in wood and food, shut door, and set the temperature.

No attention needed while cooking.

Thermostat for even temperature is gentle to food.

Smokes beef, pork, poultry, fish, seafood, lamb, sausage, game, vegetables, etc. Makes a great jerky.

Cold smoke with the optional cold smoke plate. (Great for cheese, pasta, etc.)

Controlled heat combined with a well insulated cabinet and no-draft cooking conditions produces a consistent, quality product.

Safe - does not get hot on the outside.

Easy to move around. Easy to clean. Grills and rails go in the dishwasher.

Use any dry hardwood - wood pellets or chips or chunks.

Smoker arrives assembled and ready to use!

Model 1500-C

All heavy duty 304 Stainless Steel inside and out.

Capacity:

Approx. 112 lbs. per load

54 lbs. St. Louis Ribs

36 Racks Baby Back

Shelves:

Comes with 6

Capacity 9

(W=18" x D=18")

Outside Dimensions:

W=21" x D=23" x H=41"

Weight 170 lbs.

Electrical:

2-700 watt heating elements

1400 watts, 12 amps

120 v single phase current

Insulation:

Full-excluding bottome

Wheels:

Heavy Duty

Stainless Steel Drip Pan Included

Model 1500-CXLD

All heavt duty 304 Stainless Steel inside and out. Will hold 5 full size resturant pans 4 inches deep.

Capacity:

Approx. 120 lbs. per load

80 lbs. Ribs

36 Racks Baby Back

Shelves:

Comes with 6

Capacity 9 positions

(W=18" x D=22")

Outside Dimensions:

W=21" x D=26.5" x H=41"

Weight 170 lbs.

Electrical:

2-700 watt heating elements

1400 watts, 12 amps

120 v single phase current

Insulation:

Full-excluding bottom

Wheels:

Heavy Duty

Stainless Steel Drip Pan Included

Please don't hesitate to Contact me or Read our feedback profile if you have any comments or questions. The entire SmokinTex Product Catalog (including accessories) can be seen and purchased at our online store MyRubberneck where a limited number of COUPONS exist, FREE SHIPPING is offered every day and all purchases come with a FREE GIFT.

The Joy of "Do It Yourself" House Cleaning

"Cleanliness is next to Godliness". What a great saying! Some people believe that House Cleaning is a difficult task. Is it really a Task? It is not, if it is properly planned and the Cleaner is mentally and physically prepared. Why clean your home? You enjoy peace and comfort in a clean surrounding.

General house cleaning should be done occasionally. Firstly, consider house cleaning as one of your goals. There are certain specifics, like the completion time and the end result. Set a time for finishing the cleaning, let us say two weeks. Visualize the beautiful appearance of your home after all the cleaning has been done Secondly, ensure that you have the correct cleaning equipment and tools, for example, a broom, vacuum cleaner, polisher, and duster. Have a healthy and nutritious meal before embarking on the cleaning. Wear appropriate garment and head gear. For those of you who do daily exercises, think of the house cleaning as such.

Thirdly, Clean the rooms that are less frequented by human traffic, first. It may be the Guest room or the Library.The most frequented room should be cleaned last, that is the Kitchen.

Have Fun while you clean. Listen to your favorite music. If possible remove some of the bulky items from the room which you are cleaning so that it takes less time. Do the dusting and wiping before vacuuming and mopping. Next, you polish and shine the furniture. If necessary, install drapery and curtain. Finally, do the 'last minute touch up'. Hang the Art work and pictures on the wall and position the plants and decorative ornaments to beautify the rooms , giving them the Perfect Finish.This in a nutshell, is "The Joy of Do It Yourself House Cleaning".

How to buy A Diamond

1. Choose your qualified diamond jeweler just like you would choose your doctor, lawyer, or any other professional. Ideally, your jeweler is a GIA-trained Graduate Gemologist (G.G.) or Accredited Jewelry Professional (A.J.P.) and is affiliated with jewelry industry groups and professional associations such as the American Gem Society (AGS) and American Gem Trade Association (AGTA). A knowledgeable jeweler will clearly explain the 4Cs of diamond quality and encourage you to compare a number of diamonds that fall into your price range.

2. Learn the 4Cs of diamond quality, the key to a diamond’s value and subsequent price.

Carat

Diamonds are weighed in carats with one carat weighing about the same as a paper clip, or 0.2 grams. Just as a dollar is divided into 100 pennies, a carat is divided into 100 points which means that a diamond of 50 points weighs 0.50 carats. But two diamonds of equal weight can have very different values depending on their clarity, color, and cut. Carat weight is the most intuitive of the 4Cs – you expect a larger diamond to be worth more.

Clarity

Because they are created deep within the earth, most diamonds contain unique birthmarks called inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external). Diamonds without these clarity characteristics are rare – and rarity translates to higher cost when purchasing diamonds. Using the GIA Diamond Grading System, diamonds are given a clarity grade that ranges from Flawless to Included (I3).

Color

Colorless diamonds are extremely rare and very valuable - most are nearly colorless with yellow or brown tints. The GIA Diamond Grading System uses letters to represent colors, beginning with D (colorless) and ending at Z (light yellow or brown). Many of these color distinctions are so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye but these slight color differences make a big difference in price.

Cut

While diamonds come in many different shapes, including round brilliants, hearts, pears , and marquises, cut has to do with proportion and the arrangement of facets. The sheer beauty of a diamond depends on cut more than anything else, using light to create brilliance, sparkle, and flashes of fire. The GIA Cut Scale ranges from Excellent to Poor. GIA provides a cut quality grade for standard round brilliant diamonds that fall in the D-to-Z color range.

3. Get your diamond reports. Insist that your diamond come with grading report or, for other gemstones, an identification report from an independent, accredited gemological laboratory like GIA - your assurance of value, quality, and authenticity. GIA Diamond Grading Reports are the most widely used reports in the industry and offers laboratory grading services and reports directly to the public. Since GIA only grades unmounted diamonds, they recommend working with your jeweler so that your diamond is submitted correctly.

4. Keep your purchase secure. Before you surprise your love with a piece of diamond jewelry, have the piece appraised and insured. Appraisers and insurers rely on diamond grading and identification reports to accurately evaluate the quality and value of gems.

How to determine which gown will fit and flatter you best

If You're Pear-Shaped

Look for: A skirt that gradually flares out in an A formation from the natural waist to the floor, highlighting the narrowness of the midsection and floating away from the hips and thighs. (Sturdier fabrics, such as duchesse satin and taffeta, are especially effective, since they won't cling.) A spaghetti-strap bodice or a V neckline will also showcase a more slender upper body.

Keep in mind: A classic A-line silhouette lends itself to formal weddings, but it can also be dressed down when made from a more casual fabric, like eyelet lace or raw-silk shantung.

If You're Busty

Look for: A dress with a scooped neckline. It will open up your face and display your décolletage without showing too much cleavage. If you love the look of strapless gowns, choose one that has a slight dip along the neckline, like a sweetheart, rather than a style that goes straight across (which will make your bust appear even larger and more shelflike).

Keep in mind: Fabric on the bodice that has a sheen to it (such as organza, satin, or silk) will add volume and call attention to your chest. Material that is ruched will have the same effect.

If You're Small-Chested

Look for: A ruched bodice. Extra fabric up top will help fill out your upper body and create the illusion of curves. Lightly padded halter styles will also do the trick.

Keep in mind: The right bra will always provide a nice boost, but as many wedding dresses are strapless or backless, your undergarment options may be fairly limited. Instead, try self-adhesive silicone bra cups by NuBra (available at nubra.com).

If You’re Plus-Sized

Look for: An Empire dress with a skirt that begins just under the bust and flows into a gradual floor-length A-line. Make sure the Empire seam does not start on the chest and that there is no pleating of the fabric, which is reminiscent of maternity wear. The dress should play up your shape; if it’s too loose, it will add pounds.

Keep in mind: Find fabrics like satin that provide structure, rather than anything too flowy. If you love the romantic look of airier fabrics, choose a gown with a stiffer base, then add an embroidered tulle overlay.

If You’re Apple-Shaped

Look for: A dress that cinches in at the smallest point on the waistline, then flares out into a gradual A shape. Opt for a bodice with a lot of texture to it?think ruche or lace detailing?that will camouflage and fit snugly, creating a corsetlike effect. The most slenderizing neckline for you is one with a deep V, which will draw eyes toward the vertical, not the horizontal.

Keep in mind: Avoid trumpet dress styles, which emphasize the area where your body is widest and flare out at the legs and the knees, where you are most slender.

If You're Tall

Look for: A simple silhouette. The strategy is to emphasize your natural shape, so every aspect of the dress?the lower waistline, a floor-sweeping hem?needs to reflect your longer proportions. If you're wearing long sleeves, they should go past the wrist. You don't want to look as if you've borrowed a gown from someone shorter than you.

Keep in mind: Because you are statuesque, you'll want to err on the side of simplicity when it comes to embellishments. Too many bells and whistles, like ruffles and rosettes, can come off as cutesy, particularly on a tall person.

If You’re Straight-Lined

Look for: A dress that will create curves where you don’t have them. Try a sheath dress in a wispy charmeuse that’s cut on the bias; the curving side seam will give you a va-va-va-voom silhouette. Or look for a ball gown that cinches in at your natural waist and descends into a full, flowing floor-length skirt: It will capitalize on your slenderness and camouflage a lack of hips.

Keep in mind: If you have a small bust, look for a bodice with some ruching to create volume.

If You're Petite

Look for: Trumpet, sheath, and modified A-line gowns. Find a style with a waistline above your natural waist, to make the lower half of the dress (and therefore you) appear longer. The fabric is up to you?you can pull off a high sheen. But the detailing should be small (no huge bows) and limited to the bodice, to draw the eye upward.

Keep in mind: Be wary of dresses with a dropped waist, which will make your legs seem nonexistent, and ball gowns?it's easy to get lost in that voluminous skirt. Also, avoid anything calf-length, which will make your legs look short.